Monday, June 14, 2010

Naldehra - Shimla's Emerald beauty






The last Viceroy of India, the controversial figure, Lord Curzon may well be remembered for this beauty he discovered only 20 km away from Shimla – Naldehra. It was the end of the nineteenth century when Lord Curzon discovered this place and fell head over heels for the place. In fact, it is said that he would abandon the Viceroy’s Lodge in Summer Hill, Shimla and disappear for days to Naldehra, communicating and controlling his office by messages and heliograph.

The central attraction of Naldehra is the lush green Golf Course with 68 courses and 9 holes, the layout of which was suggested by Lord Curzon himself. The course is surrounded by wooded forests and the wide view is simply spectacular!

Lord Curzon was so besotted with the place that he named his youngest daughter Alexandra ‘Naldehra’ as her middle name.

Naldehra with her pristine beauty is not over populated with human beings. Except for the horses, their care takers, the Guides who wish to show you around, the transit visitors, normally speaking the place is just an enormous emerald green patch on earth. To reach there, the closest place (10 kms away) is Masobra, which is fast losing itself to become an extension of Shimla. It is only a matter of time therefore, that the emerald green muse of Lord Curzon’s life, will turn to patches of grey ugly buildings.

It is always best to walk around the mountain in Naldehra, in a circular movement around the Golf Course instead of talking a horse, on two grounds – animal consciousness as well as experiencing a lovely long walk around the mountain and doing a little steep climbing too.

HPTDC has its hotel in Naldehra – The Golf Glade (Tel: 0177-2747809, 2747739, Email: naldehra@hptdc.in; Price: Rs 1600 – 6500 plus taxes)


Please view more pictures:
http://picasaweb.google.co.in/117421198519404762292/Naldehra#

Thursday, June 10, 2010

Amrita Shergil - The Holme and The Studio, Shimla

-->
-->Oral history is a blessing!
The search for Amrita Shergil’s (1913 – 1941) home called The Holme took me around Summer Hill, Shimla many times before I found the house that belonged to her family. Shut out from public view with high grey walls the house is not visible at all from the streets. In fact the property has been divided and sold and there are now two owners of the property, one being the Escorts Group in Faridabad, Delhi. Thus, the house The Holme and much of the compound belongs to them, while Amrita Shergil’s The Studio belongs to someone else.

Having taken the help of a senior gentleman in the locality and the shop-keepers, I was able to get to The Holme but was only able to get some pictures of it, in bits and pieces from the streets, the opposite buildings and our story tellers own house.

There was a Sikh gentleman called Shergil, who married a western woman and they had a daughter called Amrita. Look down. Can you see this house with a green roof? That is called The Holme. This is where Mr Shergil lived with his wife and their daughter. When he saw that Amrita was growing into a great artist and many people were visiting her to see her paintings, he built her a studio where she could paint and welcome those who came to see the paintings. It became to be known as The Studio”.
Of Amrita Shergil Wikipedia says that “In 1921 her family moved to Summer Hill, Shimla in India, and soon began learning piano and violin, and by age in nine she along with her younger sister Indira were giving concerts and acting in plays at Shimla's Gaiety Theatre at Mall Road, Shimla. Though she was already painting since the age of five she formally started learning painting at age eight”.




Actually The Studio is a hop-skip-and a jump away from the backside of Summer Hill Station, Shimla.

“In September 1941, the family moved to Lahore but sadly just days before the opening of her first major solo show in Lahore, she became seriously ill and slipped into a coma and later died around midnight on December 6, 1941, leaving behind a large volume of work, and a mystery behind. The real reason for death has never been ascertained, something expected in view of the overly sensationalised accounts of Amrita's life in the words of her contemporaries. A failed abortion and subsequent peritonitis also have been suggested as the possible causes. She was cremated on December 7, 1941 at Lahore.” – Wikipedia

During her lifetime, Amrita is said to have been also famous for her many affairs with both women and men.



Photo credit
: Wikipedia – Amrita Shergil in her study as photographed by her father
To know more on Amrita: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amrita_Sher-Gil

More photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/117421198519404762292/AmritaShergillTheHolmeAndTheStudio#

Monday, May 24, 2010

Acts of faith


The road to faith may begin at any time of one’s life. It is one single moment or a few moments that collectively come together to create a belief system within us, which is a source of perennial strength. However, while life provides ample instances to revert to this source of inner strength, sometimes it is good to take on an act or feat which will revive our faith, consciously.

Thus, despite umpteen stories told to instill the fear of monkeys, I took on this trek to Jakhoo, the Hanuman temple, rumored to be highly populated by hoards of monkeys and a coterie of ardent priests, who have placed themselves there to pray and serve the most beloved animal God of faith in North India – Hanuman ji. The bachelor God, whose presence came about through the Ramayana, is known to all as one of the best examples of devotion, austerity, celibacy and one who can move mountains to give his believers what is their heart’s desire.

Mine was a simple desire – restoration of my faith in a Higher Power.

Jakhoo is approximately 2.5 km from Upper Mall, Shimla and is the highest hill (2,455 metres) around Shimla. To get there, you take the narrow road between, Christ’s Church and the State Central Library to begin your trek up the hill to Jakhoo.

It is a steep climb right from the beginning without any let up. Your heart thumps against your chest faster than you can repeat the name of God.

For me it was a test of my faith, a test of my quietude to trek up alone, despite the fears instilled by one and all – There are monkeys all around; they will snatch your spectacles from you or anything you are holding and until you have given them the channa they want, they won’t return your spectacles; be careful; don’t do it alone….

Come Sunday, I was doing it alone and the good news is that there were monkeys all along the route, but they were not any fiercer than those you encountered all around Shimla. If you don’t look at them, they don’t trouble you. If you don’t swing your ice cream and your handbag at them, they are not enticed to snatch those from you.

You may trek with anyone, or even a group, but only someone who loves to trek alone, knows the sheer joy of trekking alone. There is only you and nature around. You and your thoughts, you and your movement; you have left the whole world behind you just for these hours or days, you really do not know what challenges are before you nor do you know right now, how you will handle them should they come about, but something deep inside tells you that come what may, you will find your answers within or a help will surface from apparently nowhere.

“How far am I from the Jakhoo temple?” I asked a man who was coming down the hill.

“Only 5 minutes”, he said jubilantly, “Ram naam lo aur pahuch jaoge”- Only 5 minutes more…repeat the name of Ram and you will be there.

Was that Hanuman himself, giving me hope and encouragement, I wondered. Indeed, the temple was only 15 minutes away. On the last leg, the uphill climb gets very tough. Your lungs pump hard and the heart beat is all you hear. The monkey population increases and they jump hither and thither in front of you, engaged in activities with each other. Don’t lose your balance or begin to jump around like a monkey physically. Strangely, at the top the often referred to monkey mind of man having undergone the single-minded pursuance of the trekker, to reach the summit, submits and surrenders. The mind becomes silent, clear of all thoughts, just quiet!

You have reached the feet of Hanuman, all the wish and demand list you had made is forgotten and you just heave a sigh of great relief, a soft feeling of joy playing inside your heart – you have indeed accomplished an act of faith.

A few things to remember on this journey:

- Keep yourself light - hand baggage and food,
- Photography is not allowed; do not carry your camera with you
- Start the trek early in the morning by 7am. Maybe earlier
- Walk slowly up, there is no hurry
- Keep your mind on the road ahead
- If you have a mantra, repeat it mentally
- Do not make noise; walk silently to avoid stressing your lungs
- Do not carry channa, nuts, peanuts for the monkeys
- When you encounter a monkey or see it close by, don’t scream. Just place your hands across your chest, as if hugging yourself and look down and keep walking
- Since they are mammals, if they still jump on you, stand still, without fretting. They will go away
- On the way, you can hire a stick for Rs 10 – 30, but please don’t use it on the monkeys. Sticks are helpful support for climbing up and more so for climbing down perhaps
- While climbing up, think of the stress-less joy of climbing down!
- While climbing down, be attentive to the sliding road on which you are walking. A fall here might be more damaging than falling on the marble floor of your bath
- There are steps on one side of the road; for those who like to use the steps for going up or down, you may do so
- Wear a shirt with an inner pocket to hold your spectacles /money away from the penetrating eyes of the monkeys
- A good pair of shoes always helps, one that you are used to wearing and which is not a new pair


Last but not the least, if you are one of those no-stress hikers: You can take a car right up to the last leg of the hill; you will have to walk up only for a few minutes.

If you are really one of those lazy bums, wait! In a year you will have the ropeway to take you from the Mall to the temple in less than 10 minutes.

Either way, its all about acts of faith, whether one prefers to trudge up or go up in air!


Picture credit from the web:

Jakhoo Temple

http://himachalimages.files.wordpress.com/2008/09/726463534_72807663a9.jpg