Thursday, June 10, 2010

Amrita Shergil - The Holme and The Studio, Shimla

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-->Oral history is a blessing!
The search for Amrita Shergil’s (1913 – 1941) home called The Holme took me around Summer Hill, Shimla many times before I found the house that belonged to her family. Shut out from public view with high grey walls the house is not visible at all from the streets. In fact the property has been divided and sold and there are now two owners of the property, one being the Escorts Group in Faridabad, Delhi. Thus, the house The Holme and much of the compound belongs to them, while Amrita Shergil’s The Studio belongs to someone else.

Having taken the help of a senior gentleman in the locality and the shop-keepers, I was able to get to The Holme but was only able to get some pictures of it, in bits and pieces from the streets, the opposite buildings and our story tellers own house.

There was a Sikh gentleman called Shergil, who married a western woman and they had a daughter called Amrita. Look down. Can you see this house with a green roof? That is called The Holme. This is where Mr Shergil lived with his wife and their daughter. When he saw that Amrita was growing into a great artist and many people were visiting her to see her paintings, he built her a studio where she could paint and welcome those who came to see the paintings. It became to be known as The Studio”.
Of Amrita Shergil Wikipedia says that “In 1921 her family moved to Summer Hill, Shimla in India, and soon began learning piano and violin, and by age in nine she along with her younger sister Indira were giving concerts and acting in plays at Shimla's Gaiety Theatre at Mall Road, Shimla. Though she was already painting since the age of five she formally started learning painting at age eight”.




Actually The Studio is a hop-skip-and a jump away from the backside of Summer Hill Station, Shimla.

“In September 1941, the family moved to Lahore but sadly just days before the opening of her first major solo show in Lahore, she became seriously ill and slipped into a coma and later died around midnight on December 6, 1941, leaving behind a large volume of work, and a mystery behind. The real reason for death has never been ascertained, something expected in view of the overly sensationalised accounts of Amrita's life in the words of her contemporaries. A failed abortion and subsequent peritonitis also have been suggested as the possible causes. She was cremated on December 7, 1941 at Lahore.” – Wikipedia

During her lifetime, Amrita is said to have been also famous for her many affairs with both women and men.



Photo credit
: Wikipedia – Amrita Shergil in her study as photographed by her father
To know more on Amrita: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amrita_Sher-Gil

More photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/117421198519404762292/AmritaShergillTheHolmeAndTheStudio#

Monday, May 24, 2010

Acts of faith


The road to faith may begin at any time of one’s life. It is one single moment or a few moments that collectively come together to create a belief system within us, which is a source of perennial strength. However, while life provides ample instances to revert to this source of inner strength, sometimes it is good to take on an act or feat which will revive our faith, consciously.

Thus, despite umpteen stories told to instill the fear of monkeys, I took on this trek to Jakhoo, the Hanuman temple, rumored to be highly populated by hoards of monkeys and a coterie of ardent priests, who have placed themselves there to pray and serve the most beloved animal God of faith in North India – Hanuman ji. The bachelor God, whose presence came about through the Ramayana, is known to all as one of the best examples of devotion, austerity, celibacy and one who can move mountains to give his believers what is their heart’s desire.

Mine was a simple desire – restoration of my faith in a Higher Power.

Jakhoo is approximately 2.5 km from Upper Mall, Shimla and is the highest hill (2,455 metres) around Shimla. To get there, you take the narrow road between, Christ’s Church and the State Central Library to begin your trek up the hill to Jakhoo.

It is a steep climb right from the beginning without any let up. Your heart thumps against your chest faster than you can repeat the name of God.

For me it was a test of my faith, a test of my quietude to trek up alone, despite the fears instilled by one and all – There are monkeys all around; they will snatch your spectacles from you or anything you are holding and until you have given them the channa they want, they won’t return your spectacles; be careful; don’t do it alone….

Come Sunday, I was doing it alone and the good news is that there were monkeys all along the route, but they were not any fiercer than those you encountered all around Shimla. If you don’t look at them, they don’t trouble you. If you don’t swing your ice cream and your handbag at them, they are not enticed to snatch those from you.

You may trek with anyone, or even a group, but only someone who loves to trek alone, knows the sheer joy of trekking alone. There is only you and nature around. You and your thoughts, you and your movement; you have left the whole world behind you just for these hours or days, you really do not know what challenges are before you nor do you know right now, how you will handle them should they come about, but something deep inside tells you that come what may, you will find your answers within or a help will surface from apparently nowhere.

“How far am I from the Jakhoo temple?” I asked a man who was coming down the hill.

“Only 5 minutes”, he said jubilantly, “Ram naam lo aur pahuch jaoge”- Only 5 minutes more…repeat the name of Ram and you will be there.

Was that Hanuman himself, giving me hope and encouragement, I wondered. Indeed, the temple was only 15 minutes away. On the last leg, the uphill climb gets very tough. Your lungs pump hard and the heart beat is all you hear. The monkey population increases and they jump hither and thither in front of you, engaged in activities with each other. Don’t lose your balance or begin to jump around like a monkey physically. Strangely, at the top the often referred to monkey mind of man having undergone the single-minded pursuance of the trekker, to reach the summit, submits and surrenders. The mind becomes silent, clear of all thoughts, just quiet!

You have reached the feet of Hanuman, all the wish and demand list you had made is forgotten and you just heave a sigh of great relief, a soft feeling of joy playing inside your heart – you have indeed accomplished an act of faith.

A few things to remember on this journey:

- Keep yourself light - hand baggage and food,
- Photography is not allowed; do not carry your camera with you
- Start the trek early in the morning by 7am. Maybe earlier
- Walk slowly up, there is no hurry
- Keep your mind on the road ahead
- If you have a mantra, repeat it mentally
- Do not make noise; walk silently to avoid stressing your lungs
- Do not carry channa, nuts, peanuts for the monkeys
- When you encounter a monkey or see it close by, don’t scream. Just place your hands across your chest, as if hugging yourself and look down and keep walking
- Since they are mammals, if they still jump on you, stand still, without fretting. They will go away
- On the way, you can hire a stick for Rs 10 – 30, but please don’t use it on the monkeys. Sticks are helpful support for climbing up and more so for climbing down perhaps
- While climbing up, think of the stress-less joy of climbing down!
- While climbing down, be attentive to the sliding road on which you are walking. A fall here might be more damaging than falling on the marble floor of your bath
- There are steps on one side of the road; for those who like to use the steps for going up or down, you may do so
- Wear a shirt with an inner pocket to hold your spectacles /money away from the penetrating eyes of the monkeys
- A good pair of shoes always helps, one that you are used to wearing and which is not a new pair


Last but not the least, if you are one of those no-stress hikers: You can take a car right up to the last leg of the hill; you will have to walk up only for a few minutes.

If you are really one of those lazy bums, wait! In a year you will have the ropeway to take you from the Mall to the temple in less than 10 minutes.

Either way, its all about acts of faith, whether one prefers to trudge up or go up in air!


Picture credit from the web:

Jakhoo Temple

http://himachalimages.files.wordpress.com/2008/09/726463534_72807663a9.jpg

Friday, May 21, 2010

Chail: Is the Maharaja monkeying around still?



Monkeying around Chail at The Palace Hotel is more of an entertainment than walking around the hotel and its lawns lost in the reverie of a passionate maharaja – the then Maharaja of Patiala, Bhupinder Singh (1900 – 1938), whose taste for English women, lead him to some trouble with the then Commander-in-Chief, Lord Kitchener.

The Maharaja’s appetite for beautiful women caused him to fall in love with the with Lord Kitchener’s daughter, an act that was not easily digested by the Commander-in-Chief. He barred the Maharajah from entering Shimla, where his daughter lived with him, only to see that the Maharajah was far more ardent a lover than he a protective father. The Maharaja was not used to accepting no.

Chail and the Palace there were created in his pursuance of this love, which he then of course won!

I had been fascinated with this story for a long time: what romance must it had been!

The Palace which has now been taken over by Himachal Pradesh Tourism Corporation, is maintained well and lends the visitor with the sight and feel of old time grandeur, but the plush lawns are what takes the breath away in more ways than one – could the Maharaja of Patiala, still be monkeying around?

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

Book Review: Travelling Light by Suma Verughese

A few lessons came first.

Within my office, once the book came in, it got lost! On enquiry, it was found that the young man sitting at the Communications Desk had got hold of it and begun to read it himself! After much cajoling it landed on my desk, but not before I had already promised to buy him another copy. Cheque paid and according to him, dispatched, it failed to show debit on my account. Even after much persuasion I was unable to coax the young man to give me the Way Bill number. I left it at that. His time with a soul-stirring book was perhaps over for now with just a brush. His time will come, in time, I am quite sure.

Finally, having read the book without once putting it down, I tried to read it like a Psalm. I opened to any page and read the chapter. Over and over again, each day, there was a message for me in it!

Suma Varughese’s book, Travelling Light is a compilation of her columns in Life Positive Magazine over the last few years, precisely, 2001 onwards. Pearls of wisdom interlace with trials and tribulations of daily life, the challenges of body and mind and the inevitable journey to Self realization, which may start in this life but may take several lives to complete. Or it might have started many lives before and may just about end in this one, with a satori. How else do you describe the author’s journey from Editor of one of mainstream’s most coveted magazines, to actually a transition to India’s first spiritual mainstream magazine, which was then just a start-up? Sixteen years of depression and one strong moment of Truth was all that was required to see Suma in her new avatar – then Bureau Chief of Life Positive Magazine, Mumbai. Today she is the Editor of the same magazine.

Mixed generously with subtle humour of our daily lives, the book provides a recipe to overcome and rise above petty but meaningful occurrences in our daily lives, to embrace the larger picture there is in that experience.

Life, when you come to think of it, is really an unmixed blessing. Everything, everything, has something to teach us. Nothing goes waste, nothing is bad, and everything works out for our ultimate good. A crow defecates on your brand-new dupatta is here to teach you tolerance and acceptance – how kind of the crow! A traffic jam gives you an excellent opportunity to experience your frustration and overcome it. How kind of those who engineered it! A manipulative colleague is here to teach you to overcome anger and a sense of victimization. It is good indeed of the colleague to take on such bad karma in order to help you grow.” – pg 62, An Unmixed Blessing

The message is clear – the present is the opportunity provided for our growth.

Suma Varughese is not Deepak Chopra. She is not here to give us quick-fix enlightenment. In fact, each chapter which has something from daily life and a lesson to learn from it, is almost as human as human can be; it is a story that all of us can connect with easily and hence the lessons too make more sense. Suma is as much the victim as all of us in this matter. Was it not only yesterday the guests came and the house help who had promised only in the morning that she would arrive in time to help with the dinner preparations, gave a last minute ditch leaving us to manage the entire dinner, after a hectic day at the office? Did not our blood boil along with the soup and did not our tongue itch to spit out the choicest gaalis, in M’s, C’s and B’s, but were forced to swallow the bitter anger along with the fresh lemon soda and a plastic smile entertaining the guests? It is only at night, after a four-course meal and when the last of the guests had left with happy bellies and we laid our weary head on the pillow that we heard a voice, no matter how feeble whisper – “Everything in the life of a Seeker is an opportunity to go within.” We bit our teeth, even as we thanked the Lord, for having taken us to this road of Self-realisation, albeit with its jerks and starts.

Divided into three sections, Self, Reflections and Society, this is what Travelling Light all about. A lesson waits for everyone, just like mine came even before I had set my eyes on it – no matter how much I want to share the book with that dear fellow at the Communications Desk, I must wait patiently, for his moment of journey to Self realization to become an active search.

So will you find your message for the day, every day in Travelling Light.

Name: Travelling Light Walking the Path of Letting Go
Author: Suma Varughese
Publisher: Magus Media Pvt Ltd., C153, Okhla Industrial Area, Phase I, New Delhi – 110020 Tel: 91-11-26902020; Fax: 91-11-26902090
Email: sales@lifepositive.net
To buy email directly to: laxman@lifepositive.net
Pages: 170
Price: Rs 195

About the author of the book: Suma Varughese is the editor of Life Positive magazine, India’s premier body-mind-spirit magazine. A veteran journalist with 30 years of experience, she was formerly editor of the popular lifestyle magazine, Society. A Seeker of the spirit, she is unmarried and lives in Mumbai with her mother, her sister and her cat.

Monday, April 19, 2010

Goodbye sweet memories



















Time and tide waits for no man. Nor woman.

Only last year around this time I took on a job with a sector I had never worked in before. It is called the Non Governmental Sector (NGO for short) in order that I might get my hands dirty. And right enough I did – or almost! My interest was to get into the sector in order that I may be able to devote my time to the social sector, really playing with the real soil of India – the under privileged.

A year from then, I am returning to Delhi, with hope that I will be able to do my bit in my own way in a small circle, I will have to develop in Delhi’s juggi jhopadi.

Having said that, I must confess that the year behind me was enriching too especially because of a dear friend I met quite by chance. Without mincing words I have to give 90% of my ability to have stuck around on this job, to her encouragement and support. A good listener, forever available and open to my thoughts and anxieties, she had been the rock of Gibraltar throughout this period. Hence, with only twenty days to go, we decided to take a joint trip together to a place neither of us had been before – Jabalpur.

Trips and travels may be planned but there is a sense of the unexpected that is always there, which makes the trip all the more exciting. This time we were in for a new experience, not altogether happy.

As we completed the first day, having taken a boat ride through the River Narmada lined on both sides with the famous splendid marble rocks and visited the temple of the 64-yoginis (see picture on the link below) we came back to Osho Amrit Dham, where we were putting up, right next to the beautiful rock garden. We had hardly finished an afternoon siesta and a meditation, than we got the sad news that my friend’s father had just passed away.

All our plans of Jabalpur sight-seeing took the back seat as we struggled on a Sunday evening to get to the nearest airport in order that we could have her on a plane to Chennai.

Jabalpur is really one of those towns, in the middle of nowhere! To get to the nearest “city” points, you have to travel approximately 7 – 8 hours by train or bus! So, at 11 pm we took a bus from Chaudhury Travels, right where the Bus Stand is, to Nagpur, 8 hours away.

Ah! The sight of a large city – Nagpur, we could not savour much except that the broad roads took us to the Airport and once she was gone, I began my long and arduous journey back to Bhopal, by train and bus. By the time I was in Bhopal, my back had almost given way – 19 hours of travel non-stop in not the best of comforts, made me decide that really this was the journey, I call life. And here’s why.

Some journeys are marked by a certain flavor that is peculiar to life itself. You come to the world as a visitor, you travel distances, sometimes short and these days, many times long, between the two finite points – life and death, wearing your soles out, allowing the weather to beat your brows, loving some, hating some, making rules, breaking them, conforming and rebelling. You meet new friends, you lose old ones, you make a new beginning, but it does not move after a certain time, no amount of effort can determine which way the wind is going to blow. So you as a traveler set your sail up to the wind, and the best traveler is one who can allow the flow and go with the wind.

I may not be Marco Polo, but I have travelled over life times to know, why we meet and part, whether it is places we change or in the hands of death we surrender to. There is a reason behind everything. There are no accidents in life. The wealth of past experiences must do their round to expend their energies. All our meetings, all relationships, are but the fruition of a past coming the full circle.

Therefore, goodbye sweet memories, dear hours spent together. Be it time, space or the evil hands of death, time and tide waits for no man. Nor woman. It is but, the sweet essence of life, the lessons learnt, to love, to rejoice, when life is there, and then to mourn it not, for the hours once spent never return except in our memories. And that too will pass, in time.

Therefore, Goodbye sweet memories!




More pictures of Jabalpur

http://picasaweb.google.co.in/juliadutta/Jabalpur#

Thursday, April 08, 2010

M K Gandhi without his undies

Thrill of the chaste: The truth about Gandhi's sex life

With religious chastity under scrutiny, a new book throws light on Gandhi's practice of sleeping next to naked girls. In fact, he was sex-mad, writes biographer Jad Adams

It was no secret that Mohandas Gandhi had an unusual sex life. He spoke constantly of sex and gave detailed, often provocative, instructions to his followers as to how to they might best observe chastity. And his views were not always popular; "abnormal and unnatural" was how the first Prime Minister of independent India, Jawaharlal Nehru, described Gandhi's advice to newlyweds to stay celibate for the sake of their souls.

But was there something more complex than a pious plea for chastity at play in Gandhi's beliefs, preachings and even his unusual personal practices (which included, alongside his famed chastity, sleeping naked next to nubile, naked women to test his restraint)? In the course of researching my new book on Gandhi, going through a hundred volumes of his complete works and many tomes of eye-witness material, details became apparent which add up to a more bizarre sexual history.

Much of this material was known during his lifetime, but was distorted or suppressed after his death during the process of elevating Gandhi into the "Father of the Nation" Was the Mahatma, in fact, as the pre-independence prime minister of the Indian state of Travancore called him, "a most dangerous, semi-repressed sex maniac"?

Gandhi was born in the Indian state of Gujarat and married at 13 in 1883; his wife Kasturba was 14, not early by the standards of Gujarat at that time. The young couple had a normal sex life, sharing a bed in a separate room in his family home, and Kasturba was soon pregnant.

Two years later, as his father lay dying, Gandhi left his bedside to have sex with Kasturba. Meanwhile, his father drew his last breath. The young man compounded his grief with guilt that he had not been present, and represented his subsequent revulsion towards "lustful love" as being related to his father's death.

However, Gandhi and Kasturba's last child wasn't born until fifteen years later, in 1900.

In fact, Gandhi did not develop his censorious attitude to sex (and certainly not to marital sex) until he was in his 30s, while a volunteer in the ambulance corps, assisting the British Empire in its wars in Southern Africa. On long marches in sparsely populated land in the Boer War and the Zulu uprisings, Gandhi considered how he could best "give service" to humanity and decided it must be by embracing poverty and chastity.

At the age of 38, in 1906, he took a vow of brahmacharya, which meant living a spiritual life but is normally referred to as chastity, without which such a life is deemed impossible by Hindus.

Gandhi found it easy to embrace poverty. It was chastity that eluded him. So he worked out a series of complex rules which meant he could say he was chaste while still engaging in the most explicit sexual conversation, letters and behaviour.

With the zeal of the convert, within a year of his vow, he told readers of his newspaper Indian Opinion: "It is the duty of every thoughtful Indian not to marry. In case he is helpless in regard to marriage, he should abstain from sexual intercourse with his wife."

Meanwhile, Gandhi was challenging that abstinence in his own way. He set up ashrams in which he began his first "experiments" with sex; boys and girls were to bathe and sleep together, chastely, but were punished for any sexual talk. Men and women were segregated, and Gandhi's advice was that husbands should not be alone with their wives, and, when they felt passion, should take a cold bath.

The rules did not, however, apply to him. Sushila Nayar, the attractive sister of Gandhi's secretary, also his personal physician, attended Gandhi from girlhood. She used to sleep and bathe with Gandhi. When challenged, he explained how he ensured decency was not offended. "While she is bathing I keep my eyes tightly shut," he said, "I do not know ... whether she bathes naked or with her underwear on. I can tell from the sound that she uses soap." The provision of such personal services to Gandhi was a much sought-after sign of his favour and aroused jealousy among the ashram inmates.

As he grew older (and following Kasturba's death) he was to have more women around him and would oblige women to sleep with him whom – according to his segregated ashram rules – were forbidden to sleep with their own husbands. Gandhi would have women in his bed, engaging in his "experiments" which seem to have been, from a reading of his letters, an exercise in strip-tease or other non-contact sexual activity. Much explicit material has been destroyed but tantalising remarks in Gandhi's letters remain such as: "Vina's sleeping with me might be called an accident. All that can be said is that she slept close to me." One might assume, then, that getting into the spirit of the Gandhian experiment meant something more than just sleeping close to him.

It can't, one imagines, can have helped with the "involuntary discharges" which Gandhi complained of experiencing more frequently since his return to India. He had an almost magical belief in the power of semen: "One who conserves his vital fluid acquires unfailing power," he said.

Meanwhile, it seemed that challenging times required greater efforts of spiritual fortitude, and for that, more attractive women were required: Sushila, who in 1947 was 33, was now due to be supplanted in the bed of the 77-year-old Gandhi by a woman almost half her age. While in Bengal to see what comfort he could offer in times of inter-communal violence in the run-up to independence, Gandhi called for his 18-year-old grandniece Manu to join him – and sleep with him. "We both may be killed by the Muslims," he told her, "and must put our purity to the ultimate test, so that we know that we are offering the purest of sacrifices, and we should now both start sleeping naked."

Such behaviour was no part of the accepted practice of bramacharya. He, by now, described his reinvented concept of a brahmachari as: "One who never has any lustful intention, who, by constant attendance upon God, has become proof against conscious or unconscious emissions, who is capable of lying naked with naked women, however beautiful, without being in any manner whatsoever sexually excited ... who is making daily and steady progress towards God and whose every act is done in pursuance of that end and no other." That is, he could do whatever he wished, so long as there was no apparent "lustful intention". He had effectively redefined the concept of chastity to fit his personal practices.

Thus far, his reasoning was spiritual, but in the maelstrom that was India approaching independence he took it upon himself to see his sex experiments as having national importance: "I hold that true service of the country demands this observance," he stated.

But while he was becoming bolder in his self-righteousness, Gandhi's behaviour was widely discussed and criticised by family members and leading politicians. Some members of his staff resigned, including two editors of his newspaper who left after refusing to print parts of Gandhi's sermons dealing with his sleeping arrangements.

But Gandhi found a way of regarding the objections as a further reason tocontinue. "If I don't let Manu sleep with me, though I regard it as essential that she should," he announced, "wouldn't that be a sign of weakness in me?"

Eighteen-year-old Abha, the wife of Gandhi's grandnephew Kanu Gandhi, rejoined Gandhi's entourage in the run-up to independence in 1947 and by the end of August he was sleeping with both Manu and Abha at the same time.

When he was assassinated in January 1948, it was with Manu and Abha by his side. Despite her having been his constant companion in his last years, family members, tellingly, removed Manu from the scene. Gandhi had written to his son: "I have asked her to write about her sharing the bed with me," but the protectors of his image were eager to eliminate this element of the great leader's life. Devdas, Gandhi's son, accompanied Manu to Delhi station where he took the opportunity of instructing her to keep quiet.

Questioned in the 1970s, Sushila revealingly placed the elevation of this lifestyle to a brahmacharya experiment was a response to criticism of this behaviour. "Later on, when people started asking questions about his physical contact with women – with Manu, with Abha, with me – the idea of brahmacharya experiments was developed ... in the early days, there was no question of calling this a brahmacharya experiment." It seems that Gandhi lived as he wished, and only when challenged did he turn his own preferences into a cosmic system of rewards and benefits. Like many great men, Gandhi made up the rules as he went along.

While it was commonly discussed as damaging his reputation when he was alive, Gandhi's sexual behaviour was ignored for a long time after his death. It is only now that we can piece together information for a rounded picture of Gandhi's excessive self-belief in the power of his own sexuality. Tragically for him, he was already being sidelined by the politicians at the time of independence. The preservation of his vital fluid did not keep India intact, and it was the power-brokers of the Congress Party who negotiated the terms of India's freedom.

Gandhi: Naked Ambition is published by Quercus (£20). To order a copy for the special price of £18 (free P&P) call Independent Books Direct on 08430 600 030, or visit www.independentbooksdirect.co.uk

Credit
http://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/books/features/thrill-of-the-chaste-the-truth-about-gandhis-sex-life-1937411.html