Bhimbetka Rock Shelters

A Sunday morning spent in bed, is hardly as refreshing as a trek up a hill. That too, not a hill of less importance in history, than one which would lead me to the Rock Shelters here close to Bhopal, called Bhimbetka Rock Shelters.

As we, a few of us from the office and their friends and family arrived at the entry point we realized the Gateman was more asleep than us. The gate would open at 8 am but we were in a hurry to trek up. Leaving the vehicle behind we began our trek up to the rock shelters.

Seeing is believing I have heard. Yes, it truly is! Take a look!

Surrounded by the northern fringe of the Vindhyan ranges, Bhimbetka lies 46 km south of Bhopal. In this rocky terrain of dense forest and craggy cliffs, over 600 rock shelters belonging to the Neolithic age were recently discovered. Here, in vivid, panoramic detail, paintings in over 500 caves depict the life of the prehistoric cave-dwellers, making the Bhimbetka group an archaeological treasure, an invaluable chronicle in the history of man.

Executed mainly in red and white with the occasional use of green and yellow, with themes taken from the everyday event in their daily lives, be it scenes of hunting, dancing, music, horse and elephant riders, animals fighting, honey collection, decoration of bodies, disguises, masking and household scenes. Animals such as bisons, tigers, lions, wild boar, elephants, antelopes, dogs, lizards – you see them all if you have the patience to look carefully and patiently at the rocks.

These drawings they say are from different periods – ranging from Upper Paleolithic, to Mesolithic, to Chaleolithic, Early Historic, to Medieval. Bhimbetka is a UNESCO world heritage site.

It is noteworthy to mention that as we entered, there was hue and cry among the real inhabitants of the place, hoots and war-calls, warnings from lizards, birds and monkeys that there are possible invaders around. However, at the end of our visit, they hoarded around us at the Entrance/Exit gate staring at us.

Perhaps from over generation, they have been the original inhibitors of these beautiful stone shelters. We stared at them as they looked us up and down, got bored and even lay down. A fascinating round of primates not too far away from how we look ourselves.

They say, child is the father of man. So is the primate.

Getting There:

By Air: Bhopal (28 km from Bhojpur, and 40 km from Bhimbetka) is the nearest airport. It is connected with Mumbai, Delhi, Indore and Gwalior.

By Rail: Bhopal, on the Delhi-Madras and Delhi-Mumbai mainline is the most convenient rail-head.

By Bus: Both Bhojpur and Bhimbetka are connected by bus with Bhopal.Bhopal is also the most convenient base for visiting Sanchi.

By Car: Bhimbetka is well connected by road with Bhopal. Bhopal is connected to Mumbai (781 km); Ahmedabad (571 km); Delhi (728 km); Gwalior (422 km); Indore (187 km)Drive straight out from Bhopal

To view more pictures of Bhimbetka Rock Shelters
http://picasaweb.google.co.in/juliadutta/Bhimbetka#

A Lesson or Two This Summer

“can you as a citizen do anything if a school teacher does not turn up to teach at your local government school? If a doctor in a government hospital does not attend to patients? If a ration-shopkeeper is siphoning off ration supplies? If a policeman does not respond despite repeated complaints? If the engineer colludes with the contractor and makes a road which wears off within a few days? If a sweeper does not turn up for work and your area remains dirty and unhygienic?” – Arvind Kajrewal, Only Affirmative Collective Action can save India (http://ibnlive.in.com/blogs/arvindkejriwal/2473/53398/only-affirmative-collective-action-can-save-india.html)

I am only going to pick on this - “can you as a citizen do anything if a school teacher does not turn up to teach at your local government school?

In the last 15 days, I have heard about shocking stories of how, in fact teachers in Primary Schools do not turn up at the schools, even that there are some who have become sadhus and come to just sign the register and leave after that. They collect salaries for NO WORK DONE.


This is what I gathered in Madhya Pradesh. I am not sure that it is happening in all states in India. But a few years ago, I happened upon the The Pratichi Report on Education at Primary Level in Bengal. The Pratichi Foundation is the Trust set up by Prof Amartya Sen. I present here a report from Kumar Rana , Senior Research Associate, Pratichi Trust -

“ West Bengal’s problems with education begin with its outright neglect of primary education. In spite of several declarations on universalizing primary education, the funds allocated to primary education have been consistently low. …..

A single example would make the point. In 2002 there was an average of one teacher for 54 primary school children in West Bengal, placing it as the third worst state in an all-India pupil-to-teacher ratio ranking. ……..

Organisational problems

If bad policies are harmful, weakness in implementation is sometimes worse. The shortage of teachers is well known; what is less known is the miserable organisational failure in allocating available teachers. Marginal areas are marred by unjust distribution of teachers. In a semi-urban area of South 24 Parganas district, that has comparatively better accessibility and connectivity, the local primary school had six teachers, including four females, to look after around 100 children. On the other hand, a primary school in a geographically remote village had only one teacher for 232 children. Single-teacher schools formed about 6% of the total in West Medinipur district (same as the state average). But Belpahari, a marginal block in the district, had 23% (21 out of 91) single-teacher schools when we visited the area in November 2005.” (http://infochangeindia.org/200706056484/Agenda/Child-Rights-In-India/The-aspiration-for-education.html)

Just last week, I visited Ujjain for different reasons. An NGO called Eklavya which works with schools that are interested in improving their educational standards, (www.eklavya.in) has been actively involved in not only trying to improve the educational standards in Primary schools in Madhya Pradesh, but has been for over twenty years trying to involve children in activities which are extra-curricular activity.

I went to attend one of these functions at Ujjain. I was presently surprised to see how actively the children participated in all these activities, over ten days, even though it was so terribly hot during the day. The activities began at around 8am and closed up at 11am. The Principal of Model School where it took place every day shared -

"There are no library facilities in most schools. Most teachers are not interested in any other activity other than finishing the syllabus. If you ask them for value-addition in their education, they feel they are overloaded and so are the children. Thus, both the system and the teaching staff are geared to make robots. Hence, any activity that is of the nature that Eklavya is involved in, is highly appreciated because it is sowing seeds in the minds of the children, which will sprout at sometime."

I was happy to be there and also engage myself in discussion around water-harvesting.

"Ma'am", they said, one by one, during rains you can collect the water and have it pass through the pipe back to the earth. You can save water by using less water. Instead of keeping the water tap open when cleaning the teeth in the norning, use a mug of water. Water which you use to clean the floor, can be used to water the garden"

Okay! I thought to myself! And really these children were from all strata of society, and from all religious backgrounds. It was not possible to make out the difference at all.

"can you as a citizen do anything if a school teacher does not turn up to teach at your local government school? - Yes, you can! You can develop your own programme and execute and keep the learning process on and active for children. You can encourage parent participation in activities and learning that go with and beyond the school curriculum.

Poila Boishakh 1416

Bengali year 1416, April 15, 2009 AD, was welcomed with music and dance, drama and recitals at the Netaji Subhash Indoor Stadium, here in Kolkata. Presented as “Joy Hok. Joy Hok, Nobo Noboarunodoy” – the entry fee was a mere Rs 20.

The evening began at 6 pm and ended past midnight. Featuring well known poets and musicians, vocalists and dramatists, it ended with “Mumbai’s Abhijit” singing in Bangla. My favourites – Joy Goswami and Protul Mukhopadhay were there too.

I was there late but left a little before Abhijit came on stage. The reason being, I have seen Abhijit too many times in Mumbai and in fact, he and his band rang in the 2000 millennium year for our Agency in Mumbai’s Royal Palms Hotel at Goregaon. A big incident had marked that night.

We had two shows going side by side. One at the Royal Palms which I and my team were managing and one at Fantasy Land which was being managed by another team.

It so happened, the organizers at Royal Palms started late and no sooner had the drinks been laid out, they were also over. The cover charges at that time were Rs 2000 per head and you can imagine the place was full. The open air music and dance which we as Event Managers were doing, featured Abhijit and his team. Needless, to say, Abhijit too was late and we hoped that the drinks would keep the crowd entertained. Alas!

The boisterous crowd yelled for more wine, while we kept them entertained with fillers till Abhijit arrived. As soon as Abhijit arrived, he bolted out two of the most popular numbers. The crowd forgot their grievance and rolled! All except one! A drunken Sardarji, desperate to win a backless beauty’s attention, jumped on stage and began to hurl abuses at the Royal Palm’s Management. It was a screaming match out there, there on, as we hid Abhijit back stage and pushed the now crowded with the aam junta on stage, back to where they belonged. It was at least 20 minutes of struggle before Abhijit could reappear and belt out more of his songs.

We had worked with two to three hours sleep for over 72 hours and the last straw really was managing the Event up to 3 am the night/early morning of 1st January, 2000. The last of the drunken, drooling, smooching, hugging couple left at nearly 4 am. I asked the car which was to drop me at the Office for a night crash on the Office bunk, to drop me home instead as I longed to hit my own bed and die out to the world for at least the whole of 1st and 2nd January, 2000.

It was not to be. As we were waiting at the level crossing for a train to pass, I decided to get off the car and cross the lines and get into an auto on the other side and ride home without delay. Just as I crossed the lines, I misjudged a hole dug in the ground and trying to step over it, fell and hurt my forehead badly. Blood oozed out like a rivulet down my face and the waiting rickshaw sped me to the nearest Nursing Home. I had several stitches on my forehead and my sleep escaped for again two more days!

Thus, this time, I hastened to flee the Abhijit masala music!

But, alas! This time too, when I arrived at 1 am, I found that I was locked out! Thus, had to break open the door to get into my Shobho Navabarsha home! Bizarre! But this time, I blame it additionally on the presence of a well known politician there!

Momotadi!

I wish all my readers Shobho Navabarsha – 1416 Bengali New Year!

Ami Bangla
Ami Bangla Gai
Bangla amar jeebonanaonda
Bangla amar moun

- Protul Bandhopadhay

Kolkata College Street and elsewhere (Photo Blog)

......inside the Tram

College Street Coffee House

On Sunday 12 April, 2009, the famous College Street Coffee House opened after being closed for six months for renovations.

Albert Hall – which is the other name for the College Street Coffee House – was set up by the Coffee Board in the early 1930s, but had decided to close it in 1958 and retrench staff. It created such a furore that the then CM of Bengal – Dr Bidhan Roy stepped in and the Albert Hall workers, under his guidance formed a cooperative and started to manage the College Street Coffee House themselves.

This year the Coffee House, the intellectual hub and adda of anyone worth his intellectual salt, in Kolkata celebrates its Golden Jublee.

There is a brand new look and the old dirty walls have been washed and cleaned and have been given a lively-yellow. There are frescos and terra-cotta tiles on the walls and arty lampshades and in spite of the new look, the old has still been maintained.

Poets, writers, economists, CMs and all are regulars here.

And now, having visited this post – so are you, dear Readers!

NB: Landmark just ahead of Coffee House

Kolkata Haat - The New Thing in Town

He rocks!

Waiting for the gawds

Lay men too...

.......I scouldn't dance with another, when I saw you standing there - Beatles

Title: Kolkata Haat at New Market
On Friday, February 27th, 2009, Kolkata saw the opening of Kolkata Haat, a concept borrowed from Dilli Haat.

According to the Times of India February 21, 2009, The Kolkata Municipal Corporation along with Simplex (the car-parking solutions provider at New Market, Kolkata) decided to give New Market, the much needed a new push, all for nostalgia’s sake.

Kolkata New Market holds a very special place in the hearts of many and in a bid to keep it that way, KMC has decided to turn a certain section, along the pedestrian plaza of New Market into a ‘Me-too’ like Dilli Haat, in New Delhi. Thus, starting February 27, 2009, Friday evening – Sunday evening, every weekend, crafts of every district of West Bengal will take turns to showcase and sell their art and crafts. This is expected to give the much needed thrust to the tourist community in Kolkata to hang-out over the weekends at New Market, exploring art and craft and participating in the delicious lost Bengali delicacies. So next time you plan a trip to Kolkata, make sure you don’t miss the Great Kolkata Haat – ever!

New Market is in spread across a large area in Esplanade, and if you are arriving there by Metro rail just get off at Esplanade and walk into Kolkata Haat – and explore! And don’t miss the wayside happenings too as you go. For me it was a great pleasure to encounter and get lost in the music of the sixties by a band of young students sitting on the footpath and displaying their paintings and their love for music…..Kolkata Rocks!

Timings: Friday evening to Sunday evening, every weekend, Kolkata New Market.

Deepu Weds Kavita

Deepu with his mother, Nidra

I am not sure if one can call oneself fortunate or fastly aging if one gets to see the birth of a child and then be present at the wedding of that child as well.
A young girl came to our house in Bombay in the final years of my school days and continued to stay with us till she was nineteen or so. Then she returned to her village, in Nadia district about an hour’s journey from Sealdah in Kolkata. Her name is Nidra. During the years she lived with us in Bombay, she virtually became like my younger sister.

A couple of years after she returned to her village, we heard she had got married. Shortly we heard she had given birth to a son as well. But alas! No sooner had her husband heard that she was pregnant, he fled, leaving her to fend for herself and the baby. The baby was called Dipankar Mondol.

Not an uncommon thing here in the villages of Bengal but for us it was heart breaking. Naturally, we brought the mother and son back to our home in Bombay. For many years they lived with us, both in Bombay and Pune until, when he was around 15 years, both mother and son returned to their native village, to visit us during his holidays from school.

On February 10, 2009, Dipankar married Kavita, a girl living nearby in his village.

Kavita, in her bridal form

Sindur ceremony

Saat phera

“Mashi,” he had called me, “ ami beye korchi”. – Mashi, I am getting married.Naturally, I joined the elite borjatrik(people from the boy’s family) and introduced myself to the girl and her family as – “ Ami Deepur Mashi” – I am Deepu’s maternal aunt.

The wedding started at around 9pm and went on till after 2am the following day. The next morning, after a sleepless night, we arrived back to the boy’s house, since as a rule, marriages happen at the girl’s. I left for Kolkata after plates full of mishti and a sumptuous meal of maach bhaat complete with mishti paan.

Bringing the bride home......

.....even as the tuition classes go on.....

.......and others look on!

Pssst! …….and already the Tu Tu; Main main have begun as Nidra, whispered in my ear – “Dhoor! Ekdom bhalo lage na. Meyer data uchu….” – I don’t like it at all. The girl has buck teeth!

Oh Gawd! Not again!!